A peculiar thing has been happening in the footwear world for some time now. In a market historically obsessed with sleek looks and clean design, some surprising brand names have been rising to the top. Industry titans such as Nike and Adidas are experiencing record-low sales. Why? Because they’re quickly losing market share to the likes of Hoka and On Running. You know, two brands built around the exact opposite of those aforementioned aesthetic ideals.

It’s not just sneakers, either. The resurgence of brands like Crocs and Birkenstocks is a symptom of the same trend, along with the proliferation of chunky Derby shoes and lug-sole loafers on the formal footwear side. To put it bluntly, ‘ugly’ shoes are taking over.

You might think this is nothing new, and you’d be right. Ugly sneakers have been gaining traction for several years, but instead of petering out, the trend only seems to be gathering momentum and spreading. It’s less of a footwear fad and more of a full-blown paradigm shift.

So, what are the other brands and models leading the charge, and how did all of this come about anyway? Below, we’ll answer all this and more as we delve into the trend for clumpy kicks in detail.

What’s it all about?

Essentially, this is all down to a shift towards comfort and practicality that has been taking place across the fashion landscape for some time now. It has been going on at least since the pandemic, when people naturally began to place greater emphasis on comfortable clothes and became less concerned with looking ‘smart’.

Tracing it further back, it could be argued that this is the pendulum continuing to swing in the opposite direction after many years of stripped-back, minimalist sneakers. Chunky sneakers have been around for a while now, but this latest surge of ugly shoes feels like we’re reaching the crest of a wave.

At its core, this is a trend that puts form behind function. In that sense, it’s in keeping with other menswear movements of the moment, such as gorpcore and the workwear resurgence.

Birkenstock

It’s difficult to imagine now, but there was a time not long ago when Birkenstocks were considered the absolute height of uncool.

Models like the Boston and Arizona are, let’s face it, objectively inelegant with their broad silhouettes and chunky soles, but that’s precisely what has made them some of the hottest shoes of the last few years. That and the rise of house shoes in the wake of the pandemic.

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Hoka

French running brand Hoka is dominating the sneaker market at the moment, taking chunks out of established industry titans like Nike and Adidas. This is a brand built around bulky designs and oversized silhouettes, which has put it right at the centre of the ugly sneaker movement.

Hoka’s road and trail running styles have quickly gained traction in the fashion world, and with a recent uptick in lifestyle-oriented designs and fashion-forward collabs, this shift from running track to runway only looks set to continue.

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Allbirds

Another brand that has famously built an empire putting function before form is Allbrids.

Whether you love or hate them, these comfort-led shoes have taken the world by storm, first as the footwear of choice for Silicon Valley’s tech elite and then for the rest of the world as some of the comfiest and most versatile sneakers money can buy.

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ON Running

ON sits alongside Hoka as a running brand making the shift from pure athleticism to the fashion world. The Swiss brand’s USP is its punctured midsoles, designed to put a spring in runners’ steps. But it’s the unusual look these shoes lend that has made them a popular choice for casual wearers, too.

Not only that, but the ongoing collaboration with Loewe has been helping to position ON as one of the hottest footwear brands around, and it’s all down to some of the most unusual-looking running sneakers on the market.

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Crocs

The rise of these hideous foam clogs has to be one of the most surprising fashion success stories in recent memory. These things are the definition of ugly. They’re clumpy, clumsy and often garish in colour, and they’re designed with comfort and comfort alone in mind.

Despite all this, they’ve become extremely popular, attracting a string of collaborations with some of fashion’s biggest names.

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Clarks

Known for its heritage and craftsmanship, Clarks has cleverly tapped into the ugly shoe trend by leveraging its iconic silhouettes like the Wallabee and the Desert Trek. These shoes, with their chunky soles and distinctive shapes, fit neatly into the current wave of oversized, clunky footwear.

Yet, unlike some of the others on this list, you can rest assured that these shoes are more than a mere flash in the pan. These styles have been going strong for many decades; it’s just that mainstream footwear fashion has finally caught up.

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Balenciaga

Balenciaga played a pivotal role in the rise of the ugly sneaker trend with the launch of its Triple S sneaker in 2017. The oversized, multi-layered sole and bulky design sparked a movement in high fashion, where exaggerated, almost cartoonish proportions became the new standard for luxury sneakers.

By combining avant-garde design with streetwear sensibilities, Balenciaga has redefined the definition of a fashion sneaker. Its bold, boundary-pushing designs continue to set trends and influence the industry.

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New Balance

New Balance has become a central figure in the ugly sneaker trend, known for its chunky, dad-style trainers that are both comfortable and functional. Initially seen as practical, everyday shoes, models like the 990 and 574 have been embraced by the fashion elite for their retro charm and no-nonsense aesthetic.

Throw in some creative direction from Teddy Santis and a bizarre viral loafer, and you have the recipe for one of the hottest ugly shoe brands on the face of the earth.

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