Life Skills

The view from the pop-up – Permanent Style

  • Oct 28, 2023
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The view from the pop-up – Permanent Style

Our New York pop-up (now in its second year) brings in an interesting range of people – more, perhaps, than London. 

There’s Guy, who came last time too, an old-school New Yorker in bespoke, red socks and Warren Edwards loafers; Duncan, the knitwear designer at RRL, in a tweed coat and workwear; and James, wearing a hoodie, big jeans and high-tops, but who was keen to try the Donegal coat.

It’s a real mix, and to an extent that reflects New York as a whole. There are more people in more unusual clothing – or just more clothing full stop – more of the time. Western gear goes unnoticed, as does hyper fashion. You see groups going out on the Lower East Side with everyone dressed to the nines: guys with long hair, vests, pearls; girls around Dimes Square parade in both big gowns and skinny leather. 

At the other end of the spectrum, I was taken for a lovely dinner by Paolo Martorano and Tom Mastronardi on the Friday night at Porter House, up on Columbus Circle. It reminded me how much New Yorkers dress up for dining like this. Everyone in that restaurant had made an effort, and the vast majority of men were in tailoring. It may have been mostly sports jackets, most without ties, but all were dressed up and tailoring was the obvious conduit to do it. 

It was heartening, as were the conversations we had every day in the shop. 

The space was split across two levels – Rubato and Seiji McCarthy downstairs, myself and Fred upstairs. Fred and I had lots of conversations with readers about how they wear tailoring today, and there was a real interest in casual textures, in big silhouettes, mixing genres. 

Downstairs, Rubato was going down a storm – their smart/casual mix perfect for all the men that said no one wears a suit at the office anymore, but they still want to look good. Equally, among the PS products the most popular were pieces like the Rider’s Raincoat and Cashmere Rugby, specifically because they could bring smart and formal. 

Two readers came in wearing the Rugby during the pop-up, and one was doing so with sweatpants and trainers, the other with suit trousers and loafers; both looked great. 

There was really only one day off during the week, what with setting up the shop and then packing up. But we used that to good affect, touring the vintage shops as a group, seeing the new expanded Front General space that had just opened, and visiting Rugged Road for the first time. 

I’ll do a separate piece on that later, as I thought it was interesting what all of us set out to find that day, and what we actually came back with. 

I’ll also do an updated New York shopping guide: I’m gradually trying to update those when I’ve revisited somewhere, and New York is next along with London. There’s also a new one on Berlin coming soon. 

Meanwhile, the photos in this piece are from the opening party, on the Wednesday night. Jake Mueser got a keg, which worked well: I reckon we’re more of a keg brand than a whisky-and-cigars outfit anyway. And lots of friends came by. 

Thank you to Jake, Chase, Matt and Jonas for helping us throughout the trip, with support and recommendations and many heavy boxes. Thank you to David and Emilie for their support, to Michael and John, and the lovely staff at the National Arts Club. 

Thank you mostly, precious PS readers, for coming and talking and sharing. I have to say my favourite time was the Saturday afternoon, when there were always several kids running around the top floor (families on the Saturday are the best) and I spent a good while entertaining them while their fathers tried on clothes and their mothers gave advice. There’s nothing like playing with other people’s kids when you miss your own. 

See you all next year. 

The London pop-up is being held at 19 Savile Row from November 8th to 11th. Details here

I am wearing my Taillour brown chalkstripe suit with a black Anthology T-shirt. Still in two minds about this with a crewneck – post on that little quandary sometime soon.


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