A T-shirt means different things to different people. For some, it’s just a simple underlayer; for others, it’s an iconic statement about their style, taste and status. Whichever camp you fall in, there’s no denying the T-shirt’s utility, and that’s why it’s the most ubiquitous garment in the world.

Even if you don’t care a jot about what your T-shirt says about you, there are still some key considerations you should make when purchasing one, such as the provenance of materials or the shape and fit.

And if the T-shirt is where you plant your fashion flag, you’ll want to read on and discover the key trends shaping this season’s designs.

Modern Gothic

Black T-shirts used to be the preserve of rockers and Emo kids, but these days every luxury brand worthy of the moniker has an arsenal of black tees up its seasonal sleeves.

Grungy, rebellious and with hints of skater chic, the black logo T-shirt is a nice addition to edgy streetwear-inclined wardrobes, with the likes of Amiri, Balenciaga, Palm Angels, Rhude and Off-White all contributing to the shadowy creativity this season.

Subverted Logos

Balenciaga was perhaps the first to start subverting its logo across various designs and garments, but a number of other brands have followed suit, with the T-shirt being the perfect canvas for experimentalism.

Palm Angels introduced their spray paint motif, a nice rebellious touch, whereas Rhude has modified its logo to look like a vintage Marlboro packet. Burberry’s frog tee motif is another great example of luxury labels being playful with their branding.

Crochet/Knitted

Knitted polos and tees have been in vogue in recent seasons, and it’s easy to see why – these elevated iterations of classic cotton styles are much more luxurious and textural.

Tees in fine-knitted cotton/silk and linen blends are good summer-weight options, while fine-gauge Merino T-shirts are surprisingly good temperature regulators in warm weather, too. They work well as a dressed-down accomplice to tailoring, but crochet tees are also on the radar this season and offer a more laid-back and fashion-forward approach.

The open weave and artisanal finish make them a great option for off-duty outfits.

Eco/Sustainable

If you’re more of the mindset that a T-shirt is just a T-shirt, you can still make a discerning decision at the checkout regarding the provenance of the fabric and the sustainability of the garment.

A host of new independent brands have made sustainability their USP, with the likes of Patagonia, L’Estrange and ASKET pulling out all the stops to ensure their T-shirts have a minimal environmental footprint.

Look for GOTS-certified cotton where you can and you’ll be going in the right direction.

Performance Fabrics

Techwear has come on a storm ever since streetwear gained a foothold in the luxury market, with brands such as Stone Island Shadow Project, Outlier, Arc’teryx and Acronym all planting their flags in the ground of high-tech fashion crossover kit.

That has meant that the T-shirt has been given a futuristic makeover, with lightweight performance fabrics coming to the fore. Even high-street brands such as Uniqlo have got in on the action with its Airism collection. And given that health is the new wealth, there should always be a space in your wardrobe for high-spec workout kit.

Soccer Style

Fashion and football have been somewhat reluctant bed partners over the decades, with some absolute howlers of style own goals (the 70s perm anyone?) that are best forgotten. But vintage football shirt design has caught the eye of one or two luxury brands, who have reinvented the sports genre into something quirky and contemporary.

Balenciaga, Aime Leon Dore and Percival have all revived the vintage football shirt in a way that makes it a great fit for a modern preppy aesthetic.

Logo Mania

Whether it’s an oversized logo splashed across your chest or an all-over monogram print, the quickest and easiest way to signal your fashion tribalism is with a branded tee. They might not be everyone’s cup of tea, and some are definitely more creative than others, but there’s no mistaking the impact a good branding tee can have.

If you want in on the trend, avoid the mind-numbingly boring simple chest logo options and opt for something with more thoughtful design intentions.

The V-Neck Comeback

We never thought we’d say it, but yes, the V-neck T-shirt is trying to make a comeback. Short Vs, plunging Vs and barely-there Vs, this once maligned silhouette has crept back into the collective consciousness.

What can we say? They are the Marmite of menswear. But if you’re that way inclined, go for a V-neck that really makes a statement. Otherwise, it looks like you might have got dressed in the dark.

Oversized

Whether we’re talking blazers or tees, oversized fits are often mistaken for simply buying clothes that are too big. But that’s not what they are. Oversized T-shirts are purposefully constructed with a boxier shape, often with a slightly cropped hem and sleeves with bigger proportions.

They’re a nice way to shake up your silhouette, especially if you lean into a streetwear aesthetic. If you want to see a good example of styling an oversized T-shirt, Fear of God’s lookbooks should be your first port of call.