What is a ‘caban’ coat? Well, it’s meant different things at different points in time, but it has a particular meaning as a sartorial version of a pea coat in Naples. 

The caban was originally something European sailors called a coat they saw being worn by Barbary pirates (or corsairs). The corsairs’ word was ‘qaba’ and it was more of a cloak-like piece they wore at sea. 

European sailors wanted something similar, but they turned it into a fully buttoned coat – and this was the origin of what we know as the pea coat, whose name came from a Frisian word for the cloth. 

Pea coats, or reefers, became common at sea from the 18th century onwards, as European navies introduced uniforms and the coats proved to be so practical. There were different versions over time and between navies, and officers often had longer or more elaborate versions (eg with gold buttons). 

This history is why the term ‘caban’ is still used for a pea coat in some places, including France (any local readers, do fill us in on this). But as I said, in Naples the caban is a bit different. 

These things are never as universal or consistent as we want them to be, but in general a Neapolitan caban is a more sartorial version. 

The obvious difference is that the button configuration is more similar to a double-breasted coat. It looks like a regular 6×2 set on the front (six showing, two of those buttoning) but actually all three rows button, with the lapel curving outwards to make this possible. 

There’s then a single button underneath the collar, to fasten it, similar to many polo coats. So there’s basically one row of buttons missing compared to a pea coat, plus one less on the top row. 

The pockets are also usually more like a tailored coat.

Pea coats nearly always have slash pockets – diagonal ones to stuff your hands into easily – and no breast pocket. A Neapolitan caban has the typical ‘barchetta’ (boat-shaped) breast pocket of a tailored coat, and then flapped or patch pockets on the hips. 

The collar and lapels are smaller, with a smaller wrap – more similar to an ulster. And there are often some sartorial details, such as extra pleats in the back and hand-sewn finishing.  

I’ve heard different reasons why the Neapolitan caban exists and is popular, but one that certainly makes sense is that it’s rarely cold enough to wear a full coat. A shorter one gives you all the warmth you need – as well of course the enjoyment of wearing a coat-like outer layer. 

Above is one made by Sartoria Solito, for the shirtmaker Luca Avitabile. 

The Luca Museo one I had made is a little different, most obviously in the hip pockets, which are flapped, slanted and add a ticket pocket. Chan at Luca Museo worked at Sartoria Pirozzi in Naples, and it’s this he makes for their clients in Korea and elsewhere.

Other versions in Naples vary more substantially – Sartoria Ciardi, for example, makes a caban that’s single-breasted and has more of a shirt collar. The only things it really has in common with the others are the blue colour and shorter length. 

When I visited Seoul last year, Luca Museo (above) were keen to make me a couple of things to show what they could do – this and a navy suit. As I made clear when I reviewed that suit, however, these were things they wanted to make their way. 

Those long, slightly thin flapped pockets are the design point I would change on my caban coat, certainly now I’ve worn it for a bit. I don’t think I’d go for patch pockets – like the Solito – but I’d probably choose more regular, straight flaps. 

The material of my one is a thick wool, which is lovely, but it is black. That’s not something I’d naturally go for, but given I’ve never had a black coat before, I’ll wait and see how I find it with other things in the wardrobe. 

The brown-corozo buttons Luca Museo chose work surprisingly well: I wouldn’t normally pick mid-brown to go with black. But that might also be something I change in the long run. 

Elsewhere though the coat is beautiful. The fit is great – the suit they made was very big in the chest and shoulders, but this is more moderate. And the other thing I’m hesitant about with Luca Museo, their pick stitching, is less prominent here on the dark, thick material. 

It is lovely having a more casual piece like this made bespoke, as you really notice the three-dimensional structure. It feels moulded. I think that’s probably the thing I’ve appreciated most since wearing the coat. 

By the way, apologies for the darkness of the images – the light was going quickly that day, despite being barely 3pm. That’s the problem with shooting in winter. Hopefully you can still make out the details. 

The other clothes are:

• A black Rubato lambswool crewneck
• PS black watch cap
• PS natural Arran scarf
• Brown flannel trousers (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, Fox cloth)
• Dark-brown suede boots, Galway from Edward Green 

Price: $2,800. More on Luca Museo here.