For acolytes of a certain era of ‘hashtag menswear’, the Drake’s shawl cardigan (and the lookbooks in which it was presented) was the first time we’d seen the style worn in a cool and contemporary manner. Most other presentations were quite countrified: a tattersall check shirt, a roaring log fire and a model with the smug, satisfied air of a man that’s paid his mortgage off by the age of 40.

And that Drake’s styling was so helpful, because, at heart, their cardigan is probably the most traditional one in this guide: a chunky rib knit with leather football buttons.

The pockets are welted which means the cardigan won’t lose shape or bag if you like to stuff your pockets. That said, they are also the smallest of the pockets here so you won’t get much in them beyond a cardholder, a set of keys and a small tree’s worth of snotty tissues (just me?).

Drake’s probably use the hardiest wool in the guide too. It isn’t quite as soft as the Colhay’s or Thom Sweeney, although mine has definitely softened over the years. However that also means it’s arguably more robust – I only got my first elbow hole (easily repaired) after six years of regular wear. 

Other options: Simon and I recently paid a visit to Campbell’s of Beauly and I was very impressed with their range of Scottish knitwear. Their 4-ply shawl collar cardigan (£345) was very similar in style to the Drake’s model and they had a couple of really lovely colours – a bordeaux red and a duck egg green. I tried the size 40 and it was great. For even more colour choices, you could also try the William Lockie Windsor Shawl Jacket (£279).

Colhay’s lambswool cardigan (£595)

If there’s one brand in this guide that has a special affinity for the shawl collar, it’s surely Colhay’s, whose current knitwear range has five different shawl collar knits (in multiple colours).

I’ve focused here on the superfine lambswool cardigan as it’s the Colhay’s style I’d recommend to readers when choosing their first shawl cardigan. However, for anyone contemplating becoming a two-cardigan family, the aforementioned painter’s cardigan and the shawl coat (a statement piece for knitwear lovers) are definitely worth considering. 

I tried both the small and the medium, and while they both looked good my preference was the small. Even after sizing down, it’s a generous garment – the longest in the guide, with ample space to wrap the front panels over one another in a manner akin to a double-breasted jacket.

Even the patch pockets are big, and could comfortably hold a paperback or mini tablet. This might mean the pockets bag a bit more over time, but I can live with that – it’s a cardigan, not a dinner jacket.

My earlier comparison to a jacket is more perceptive than I realised, as Colhay’s founder Ronnie Chiu explained: “Our shawl collar emulates the lapels of a tailored jacket, and the buttoning point sits around the same point as the buttoning point of a tailored jacket. These aspects combine to create a nice V-shape I think – framing the face, broadening the shoulders, nipping in the waist – emulating the flattering effect of a tailored jacket.”

The cardigan is the softest of any of the wool models in this guide – partly because of the finishing, but mainly because the wool is superfine (c 18.5 microns). However, it’s not a delicate piece, the yarn is six-ply and Colhay’s knit more than a kilogram of it into a thick, defined rib-stitch which is very soothing to run your hands along.

I’d also like to make a special mention of the website copy – which is among the best I’ve encountered. I know many PS readers aren’t averse to paying for quality goods, but we expect to be told what makes something worth the money. Sticking a description of “100% wool” next to a garment with a steep price tag just doesn’t cut it – especially when Colhay’s will tell you what sort of yarn they use, where they get it from, who knits it, how they finish it, and how to care for it.

My only reservation with the Colhay’s cardigan is that it might be too cosy. I’d genuinely hesitate to wear it to an office, lest it rouse suspicions that I’m only there to book a meeting room and curl up with a good book and a glass of brandy.

It’s just a lot of wool, especially around the collar where you’ve effectively got two layers sitting atop one another – so if you run hot, or have a shorter neck or just don’t want anything too close to your face, you might want to look at something less beefy. But, the Colhay’s cardigan was my favourite of the wool shawl cardigans in this guide.

Other options: The Scott & Charters cardigan had a similar silhouette to the Colhay’s model, but I can’t find any stockists this winter (readers please shout if you know otherwise). They used to be sold by No Man Walks Alone, but they’ve told me they’re working on a new shawl design with William Lockie. The closest cardigan in terms of style is our PS Indulgent Cardigan (£995 excl. VAT), which is made in a sumptuous 12-ply cashmere – I’ve spent a lot of time looking at cardigans recently, and there’s nothing as luxurious as this on the market.

Thom Sweeney merino cardigan (£725) 

The Thom Sweeney model is the most contemporary style of the cardigans in this guide, which perhaps lends it more versatility than the more traditional designs. One might quip that this is a shawl collar made by Italians – and then you learn that it is actually made in Italy (every other cardigan in the guide is Scottish made) and it all starts to make sense.

The first thing you’ll notice is the wool. It’s not as hardy or heavy as the other cardigans I’ve discussed; it’s made of a smooth and slinky merino with an almost silken finish. It’s still plenty cosy without being smothering. 

I spent most of a mild Sunday wearing the wonderful Colhay’s cardigan around the house, before switching to the Thom Sweeney. It was like I’d cracked open a window just a fraction – I was still warm, but there was a renewed freshness to me. This makes it a great choice for readers who run hot or live in milder climates.

Because it’s not as chunky as the other cardigans (having a slimmer shawl helps here too), I also think it’s an ideal travel companion. On most cold-weather getaways, I harbour snuggly fantasies of settling into the corner of a bar with a glass of the local tipple – the shawl collar cardigan draped around my shoulders quietly signifying to everyone just how at home I am. 

Of course, then I try to pack the thing in a suitcase, realise it takes up half the space and abandon the fantasy altogether – thwarted, once again, by Ryanair’s baggage policy. However, the Thom Sweeney cardigan should fold down nicely, and even fit in hand luggage without feeling too cumbersome.

There are only three buttons on the front – one less than the A&S and two less than everything else – which gives a clean finish. The effect is amplified by the choice of very dark (almost black) buttons on the classic navy colour – in contrast to most brands who use more traditional dark brown.

Having fewer buttons means you can’t secure the cardigan high around the chest and neck, but it also means that, regardless of how you button it, you’ll always have a flattering, deep v-shape line through the lapels.

The sharper finish (both in terms of design and wool) lends the Thom Sweeney cardigan a smarter air – verging on dressy – which makes it the best choice for readers that want something they can wear to a more formal office. I also think it would carry you into the evening for dinner or drinks without emitting too many old-man vibes. (Not that there’s anything wrong with that! I should know, I am an old man).

I tried the medium and large and could see both working, but my preference would be a large just to give myself that little extra room and length. The arms are relatively slim compared to the other brands in the guide, so the iron pumpers out there might want to try a size up – sadly, not a consideration I have to make.

Other options: The Buck Mason Herdsman cardigan ($298) also has a slim lapel, fewer buttons than the standard five and squared off pockets. It’s not the same quality and slightly more cropped than the Thom Sweeney, but a good budget option.

Begg & Co Aspen cashmere cardigan (£1200)

I met Simon for a coffee in the spring, and (not the first time) came away with severe outfit envy. 

He was wearing a pair of charcoal flannels and a washed denim shirt. Nothing particularly remarkable here, although the fit of the trousers and the texture of the shirt were still a cut above the orphaned-suit-trousers and open collar dress shirt ensemble that’s become the hallmark of business casual.

However, the point of focus, the provider of shape, the texture magnet for curious, foraging menswear hands was this beautiful cashmere cardigan from Begg & Co.

Simon has written extensively about Begg in the past, and has consistently highlighted the quality of their raw materials as one of their strengths. Here they use an 8-ply cashmere in a cable knit, which is a style more commonly found on fishermen’s crewnecks (and, as it happens, Begg have a fabulous version of that too).

While the 8-ply cashmere feels fantastic against the body (quelle surprise), it’s also less bulky than the heavyweight 6-ply lambswool from Colhay’s – which makes sense as the cashmere used by Begg is finer and lighter than even superfine wool.

I tried both the small and medium and, to be honest, there wasn’t much difference between the two. If I had to make a choice, I’d stay true-to-size and opt for the medium.

The small, as you’d expect, was a little closer in the arms and chest, but I couldn’t really perceive a difference in length – even though the website indicates there should be a 1.5cm increase everytime you go up a size. 

The very helpful sales assistant Ly noted that the small had been hanging on a rail so it may have stretched just a little bit over time. A useful reminder that knitwear (perhaps more than any other type of garment) will give with regular wear – and for a product as lovely and as expensive as this, I insist you wear it every bloody chance you get.

Like the A&S cardigan, the Begg model doesn’t have any pockets. Another feature  in common is they’re both relatively cropped – although the Begg is a centimetre or two longer.

In terms of colours, Begg has lent into a cold palette with hard names like pacific and asphalt – a case of nominative indeterminisim given how warm and soft the product is. However, the colour I’d unhesitatingly select for myself is the bare undyed, where the natural colour of the cashmere is allowed to shine untouched by dye. Interestingly, this also helps the cashmere feel ever-so-slightly softer than the dyed equivalents.