The polo shirt occupies a unique space in the modern man’s wardrobe. It’s not as casual as a T-shirt, nor is it as smart as a shirt. It bridges the gap between those two extremes, ensuring you have something to throw on when the dress code is neither here nor there. What’s more, it can be dressed up or down with ease, making it extremely versatile and a valuable tool for building lots of different types of outfits.

And yet the polo gets a bad rap.

People are quick to call it stuffy, boring or complain that it lacks flair. But what they fail to remember is that a polo doesn’t have to be a preppy pique-cotton short-sleeve tucked into the waistband of a pair of golf slacks. In fact, the term ‘polo shirt’ has a pretty broad scope. As long as it has a collar and a short placket to the neck, usually with a couple of buttons, it pretty much fits the bill.

So, before you write polo shirts off, you should make sure you’ve explored all of the options. Below, you’ll find a curated selection of our favourite polo-shirt variations, including everything from knitted numbers to OG court classics.

White Pique

Arguably the king of soft-collar shirts, the white pique polo is a sporting icon that has been a fixture of tennis courts around the world for almost 100 years. The original was introduced by French tennis pro René Lacoste, who had become frustrated with the rigid and impractical dress codes athletes were expected to adhere to on court.

He wanted something simple, comfortable and smart, so he created a shirt with short sleeves and a breathable pique cotton fabric. This was in the 1920s, and Lacoste’s polo shirts are some of the best-selling in the world to this day.

Crisp and classic, a white pique polo will go with almost anything, but we feel it works particularly well when paired with preppy pieces like chinos, knitwear and penny loafers. For alternatives to Lacoste, make sure to check out Polo Ralph Lauren, ASKET and Luca Faloni.

Knitted

This twist on the classic polo recipe adds some texture by switching the pique fabric for a knitted alternative. It’s softer against the skin and warmer while still remaining breathable, making it a good option for cooler months as well as summer.

In fact, one of our favourite uses for a knitted polo is as a layering piece to dress down tailoring, which can work well when it comes to softening up suits for smart-casual settings. Go for a neutral block colour to make mixing and matching as simple as possible, or opt for either a light pastel or an earthy autumnal colour to make your outfits pop in a seasonally relevant manner.

Zip-Neck

Zip-neck polo shirts ditch the traditional buttons in favour of a short zipper. It’s a small detail, but it makes a big difference in terms of how the garment looks overall, giving it contemporary spin. These polos can be made from classic pique cotton, but they could be made from any fabric really. We’ve seen brands making them out of everything from terry towelling to crochet.

Zip-neck polos work well with both smart(ish) and casual outfits. We’d suggest wearing one in place of a shirt with tailoring, or with jeans and sneakers for more of a laid-back look. Go for a simple navy or grey, or maybe even some contrast stripes to create a focal point within the outfit.

Towelling

Towelling polo shirts are crafted from a soft, absorbent fabric similar to that used in towels. This makes them ideal for warm weather or after a dip in the pool. The fabric’s texture provides breathability and a casual, laid-back vibe, and it’s great at wicking away moisture, keeping you cool and comfortable even on the hottest days.

To style a towelling polo, try pairing it with tailored shorts or lightweight chinos. Add a pair of espadrilles or loafers to complete the outfit. This is a solid option ideal for beachside lunches on vacation or casual weekend outings. For a more polished appearance, choose neutral tones like navy or beige.

Coloured Pique

Classic white is great and will always be the OG polo colour, but if you’re after something with a bit of punch (or you’re just paranoid about red wine stains), a colourful alternative might be the way to go.

We’re not keen on multicoloured polos – they tend to look a bit tacky and childish. Instead, go for clean block colours. Muted neutrals and earth tones if you like to keep things subtle, or vibrant primaries if you’re after something more striking.

Polo Ralph Lauren and Lacoste, the two biggest polo brands out there, both make their classic pique shirts in a frankly dizzying selection of colour options.

Patterned

If a simple colour doesn’t suffice, you could jazz things up further by choosing a patterned polo. Yes, that’s right, a patterned polo. They’re few and far between, but you can find them, and if you want to spice a simple smart-casual fit up, it could be a good option for you.

We’d advise steering clear of anything even remotely ‘novelty’ looking. Instead, go for simple stripes or geometric patterns. That said, make sure it’s something a bit different and unique.

Open Collar

Open-collar polo shirts ditch the buttons entirely with the collar laying spread open, exposing more of the chest. This gives them more of a relaxed feel that could be a nice touch when it comes to putting warm-weather outfits together. It’s essentially the polo equivalent of a camp-collar shirt.

There’s no shortage of brands making these, but the big resortwear brands usually hit the nail on the head with them, in our experience. Have a browse of labels like Orlebar Brown, Aurelien, Vilebrequin and Frescobol Carioca to get the ball rolling.